Tenuta di Trinoro 2017
ABOUT THE VINTAGE
Tenuta di Trinoro is always comprised of the first selection of grapes, a vintage-specific blend of cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot grown on thin, hard, rocky soils rich in quartz and limestone, which tend to come from the higher parcels of the estate.
2017 was a difficult growing season throughout Italy: the winter was completely dry; the spring brought frost to the valley again after many years; then summer temperatures were exceedingly high, with peaks of 40*C during the day, for three straight months, and little or no refreshment at night, turning the Val d’Orcia into a sort of Sahara. At harvest, the berries were tiny, all skin and seeds and no juice. The resulting wines are like black ink – dense, dark, and closed. They have a density and concentration to them, alongside an unexpected green note; the vines had shut down due to hydric stress, accounting for this strange intersection of slightly under and over ripeness at the same time.
A cabernet franc-driven vintage: We kept putting off the blend this year because the wines were so closed and indistinct for so long, but ultimately, they revealed themselves. We chose plots that showed a deep and full body, silky tannins, concentration, and tightly woven and compact texture. The ripe blue fruits lie alongside a ferric note and wild herbs. They are a little green inside now, but they will continue to open up over the next ten years. The 2017 Trinoro is profound.
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, 95 points: “This is a beautiful wine with infinite depth. Born in a hot and dry vintage, the 2017 Tenuta di Trinoro (a blend of 69% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon) never steps over the line into jammy or overripe territory. In fact, the wine is masterfully restrained and elegantly managed. Andrea Franchetti dealt with a harvest that, as he put it, yielded “tiny berries, all skin and seeds and no juice.” I only feel the heat of the vintage in the tannins, which are a bit dryer and more astringent in this wine. This full-bodied Tuscan red boasts deep layers of black fruit, spice, tar and campfire ash. About 7,000 bottles were made. Give the wine an extra year or two of bottle aging to allow those tannins to soften up just a bit.”
Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, 93 points: “Fresh, bright cherry and blackberry flavors contrast with firm tannins in this compact red, lending an overall impression of both ripeness and latent power. Offers a finish of leafy, tobacco and spice notes. Be patient. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2036.”
Bibenda, 5 Grappoli
450-600 m asl