Snow has fallen two thirds down the mountain. The wines have darkened fast. They are also low in sugars. Each year carries wine that we have never seen before, their makings not in the year’s weather.
First, one is surprised by the grapes’ way of ripening on the vine. When grapes have been fermenting for three for three on four days, you begin to see the style of the wine just in time to help it along.
The character of this vintage will be similar across every territory of Italy: wines of 2016 will be smooth because the grapes were ripe; they will be gentle, because taste and color are coming away from the grapes effortlessly. We don’t need to push and squeeze in the tank.